Voyage en Bleu: A Shopper’s Journey in Provence

On a recent trip to Paris, we immersed ourselves in the massive Premier Vision expo and the parade of fashion that defines this city every year come September.

But it was the solitude and anonymity of the french cities and villages of Provence, past their peak season and deliciously quiet, which inspired us in other ways. While Paris had entered winter, the South was enjoying a rare Indian Summer.

I found myself drawn to objects of all sorts that reminded me of childhood summers and that Gallic appreciation for what the French territorially call “French Blue.”

In Nimes, we marveled at the origins of denim and bleu de nimes at the Museum of Old Nimes. In Marseille, the Vieux Port and the Notre Dame de la Garde, sharply outlined against a royal blue evening sky. Our hotel, La Residence du Vieux Port, featured a massive and stunning 1950’s tapestry by Jean Lurcat, full of rich blues.

We fell in love with a crisp, cotton “Docking” jacket (2) that was at a Gap in Aix-en-Provence (Europe only, 69,95 euros). This precise color blue used to be known as le bleu du travailleur, since, until fairly recently, French factory workers wore baggy work jackets and pants in this color. Of course others call it bleu Gitane (6) since it closely matches the package of the now, nearly obsolete french cigarette brand (available through dutyfreedepot.com). Kudos to you if you’re still able to puff on these without gasping for breath, though.

What would a summer in France be without Espadrilles (3) ? I’m not going to wait for your answer since I wear them all year around. Purists still insist on the Made in France variety, like these from Pare Gabia (www.paregabia.com). In the sleepy resort town of Grau-du-Roi I found these navy ones for just 5 euros.

When I was six years old my favorite pen was the magical BIC “4C” Pen (4), which, remarkably, is still Made in France and comes in its original blue and white shell. Introduced in April, 1970 with an advertising pitch heralding its “4 colors for 3 francs,” the 4C is arguably one of the world’s most recognized pens. Alas, the round ball at the top of the pen, designed to dial rotary phones, has been replaces with a lanyard loop (1,99 euros, available from www.staples.com.)

I’ve been smitten with Repetto shoes (1) ever since I saw Serge Gainsbourg sporting white ones with an immaculate white three piece suit. The “Zizi” continues to be the brand’s best selling model. I couldn’t resist this midnight blue patent leather version (255,00 euros, www.repetto.com).

Wandering the side streets of Aix, we came upon Le Nain Rouge, a toy store brimming with exquisitely made wooden toys. “How old is the child you’re shopping for?” asked the saleswoman. “Forty-six,” I replied, which made every customer turn and stare. I fixated on this Tirot sailboat (6) which sat on a top shelf, and for good reason. These boats are  handmade by a family company in Brittany, and they’re as close as you’ll get to having one of those wooden boats you rent in Paris’s Luxembourg. This model will run you about 70,00 euros (www.bateaux-jouets-tirot.com.)

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